Sunday, 30 December 2007

Risk it for a Biscuit

Today Graeme Seggie and myself decided to risk it for a biscuit and head into Stob Coire nan Lochan. I've ice climbed with Graeme in Canada but he's not done much Scottish winter so i hoped to give him a good introduction to snowed up rock. On first appearances the buttresses looked not bad but both of our target routes were black as the ace of spades. Chimney Route looks brilliant but i wasn't prepared to have a go when it was obviously not in condition with dripping turf, apparently le turf is very important on this route.

So plan C was to head up to do Moonshadow as it was on the upper half of the buttress which looked in better nick. Nae luck there either - turf still soggy so we continued up the line we were in and ticked Twisting Gully Right Hand (IV,5). Not the best day out conditions wise but at least i got to introduce Seggie to some of the delights of Scottish Winter Climbing - verglassed chockstones and the art of thrutching !

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